Garment-fitter for waists.



Patented Jan. 16, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

f n) U 3S Ul O CLM f* 1 No E Q o o 0 IO E NVENTOR.

NE ma; fw

ffm, A TTU/UVEK COLUMBIA PLANcGRAPH 1:0.,wAsH1NG'r0N. n. c.

H. LEE.

GARMBNT FITTBR FOR WAISTS. ArrLloA'TIoN FILED MAY zo; 1910.

1,014,885. Patented Jan.16,1912.

s SHEETS-SHEET 2.

'l BY COLUMBIA PLANGURAPH Co., WASHINGTON, D.`c.

H. LEEL GABMENT FITTER FOR WAISTS. APPLIGATION FILED Muze Patented Jan.16, 1912.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

NVENTOR.

yay ATTORNEY.

coLUMmA PL'ANuGnAPH C0..wASmNGToN. u. c.

HARRIET LEE, OF KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI.

GARMENTLFITTEB. FOR WAISTS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented J an. 16,1912.

Application filed May 20, 1910. Serial No. 562,411.

To all whom 'it may concern:4 v

Be it known that I, HARRIET LEE, a citizen of the United States,residing at Kansas City, in the county of Jackson and State of Missouri,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment-Fitters forVaists, of which the following is a specification. i Y

My invention relates to improvements in garment fitters for waists.

The object of my invention is to provide an adjustable garment fitterfor a waist adapt ed to be fitted to and worn by a person, andcomprising a plurality of patterns capable, when detached from theperson, of being disposed in flat form for delimiting the seam lines.

My invention provides, further, a garment tter for a waist having aplurality of adjustable patterns, preferably fiexible, provided withmeans for being detachably connected together to form a pattern garment,adapted to be fitted to and worn by a person.

My invention vpro-vides further, 'an adjustable pattern adapted to befitted to and worn by a person and having means for delimiting theconverging lines of a dart.

My invent-ion provides also, a sleeve pattern, having means for beingadjusted and fitted to a persons arm and provided with means forreleasably securing together opposite longitudinal edges of the pattern.

Other novel features of my invention are hereinafter more fullydescribed and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate the preferred form of myinvention-Figure l is a front elevation of a figure, to which is fittedmy improved garment fitter for a waist, the sleeve pattern beingomitted. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of what is shown in Fig. l, aportion of the form being omitted and some of the parts being brokenaway. Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the figure with a portion of thegarment fitter fitted thereto. Fig. 4 is a stretched-out view of thefront pattern. Fig. 5 is a horizontal section, taken on the dotted linea-b of Fig. 4, and showing one of the screw fastening devices. Fig. 6 isan enlarged fragmentary view of a portion of the top of dart rib. Fig. 7is a side elevation of the sleeve pattern fitted on the figure of anarm. Fig. 8 is a stretched-out view of the sleeve pattern. Fig. 9 is across section on the dotted line c-Z of Fig. 8. Fig. 10 is a fragmentaryview of a portion of one of the side seam ribs and of the elbow rib ofthe sleeve pattern. Fig. ll is a fragmentary view of a portion of thetop of arm rib and of the regulating rib secured thereto. Fig. 12 is avertical section on the dotted line c-f of Fig. 8.

Similar numerals of reference denote similar parts.

The portion of the garment fitter for a waist which is fitted to thetrunk of a person, preferably comprises a plurality of patterns whichare adjustable and fiexible and which are provided with means for beingdetachably secured to each other to form a pattern garment whichembraces one-half of the trunk and extends from the front to the back ofthe medial lines thereof. These patterns preferably comprise front,under arm, side back, and center back patterns. Each of these patternspreferably consists of a plurality of extensible ribs for delimiting thevarious seam lines and of adjust-able brace ribs for locating andsecuring in position the seam delimiting ribs. The ribs may be composedof flat, flexible metallic strips, longitudinally adjustable relative toeach other, as is well known in the art, suitable well known securingmeans being employed for clamping the strips in the positions to whichthey may be adjusted. The center back, side back and under arm patternscorrespond in their general structure to corresponding patterns of thistype which are well known in the art, with the exception that I haveprovided means for detachably connecting them together and to the frontpattern, in a manner hereinafter described, to form a pattern garmentwhich may be fitted to and temporarily worn by a person for the purposeof obtaining accurate measurements and a perfect adjustment of thepatterns.

The center back pattern, best shown in Fig. 3, comprises a vertical,extensible rib l, a side rib 2, also extensible, an extensible neck rib3, pivotally connected at one end to the rib l and connected at theother end to an extensible shoulder rib 4, the ribs 2 and 4 beingconnected to each other by a scye rib 5. The ribs l and 2 are connectedto each other by an extensible waist rib 6 and an extensible hip rib 7,which extend transversely to the ribs l and 2. Intermediate of the ribs4 and 6 and connecting the ribs l and 2, may also be provided transverseribs 8 and 9. The overlapping strips of each rib may be releasablysecured to each other in the positions to which they are adjusted byscrew clips 10, one of which is shown in cross section in Fig. 5. Eachscrew clip 10 is of a well known type and is provided with a rectangularhole 11 through which the st-rips extend, the clip being provided with athreaded hole in which 'is mounted a thumb screw 12 which serves t-oclamp the strips together. Vhere two intersecting ribs are slidabl-yconnected with each other, as for instance, the ribs 1 and 8, such ribsare locked together by screw clips 13, similar to the one shown in Fig.12, each of such clips being provided with two slots 14 and 15, adaptedto respectively receive the intersecting ribs. Each clip 13 is providedwith a threaded hole in which is fitted a thumb screw 16, which Aservesto clamp the intersecting ribs together.

Having thus described the manner in which the ribs are constructed andthe securing devices for clamping the strips of each rib together andalso the securing devices for clamping together intersecting slidablyconnected ribs, I will hereinafter omit reference to the vspecificconstruction of the ribs and securing devices of the other patterns,excepting in cases where the structures differ from what I have justdescribed, but will refer to ribs of similar construction as extensibleribs, and to the securing devices respectively as clips 10 or clips 13as the case may be. For preventing lateral movement of the strips ofwhich the ribs are formed I provide the usual plain clip, similar toclip 10 but without the screw 12. These clips are denoted by 17, andhereinafter I will refer to the plain clips by that number.

The side back pattern, also best shown in Fig. 3, comprises extensibleside ribs 18 and 19, a scye' rib 20, which is also extensible, and whichconnects the upper ends of the ribs 18 and 19, an extensible hip rib 21,which connects the lower ends of the ribs 18 and 19, and two extensibleribs 22 and 23, which connect the ribs 18 and 1.9, and are in alinementrespectively with the ribs 9 and 6. The rib 2 of the center back patternis provided with a plurality of hooks 24, which are adapted to beinserted in slots provided in the rib 18 for detachably connecting thecenter and side back patterns. The strips of each rib 18, 19, 20, 21, 22and 23, are secured to each other by clips 1() and, when needed, byclips 17 The under arm pattern, best shown in Fig. 2, comprises sideribs 25 and 26, a scye rib 27, which connects the upper ends of the ribs25 and 26, and waist and hip ribs 28 and 29, which are also connected attheir ends tothe ribs 25 and 26. All of the ribs of the under armpattern are extensible and are provided with clips 10 and, where needed,with plain clips 17. The rib 19 of the side back pattern is providedwith hooks 30, adapted to be inserted in slots provided therefor, in thestrip 25 of the under arm pattern, for releasably securing the under armand side back patterns together.

I will now ldescribe the front pattern, referring particularly to Figs.1, 2 and 4:- The front pattern Lis provided with a vertical, extensiblerib 31, located at the front edge of the pattern, and having its upperend pivotally connected to the lower end of an extensible neck rib 32,the upper end of which is pivotally connected to a shoulder rib 33,which is also extensible and is pivotally connected to an extensiblescye rib 34, the lower end of which is pivotally connected to the upperend of an extensible side rib 35, comprising respectively extensibleupper and lower sections 35 and 35 pivotally connected to each other,and the lower end of the lower section 35 being pivotally connected toan extensible transverse hip rib 36, the other end of which is pivotallyconnected to the lower end of an extensible side of dart rib comprisingrespectively extensible upper and lower sections 37 and 37', pivotallyconnected to each other, the upper section 37, at its upper end, beingpivoted by a pin 43 to a transverse plate 38, which forms part of anextensible top of dart rib, comprising overlapping longitudinal plates38, 39, 40, 41 and 42, the plates 39 and 42 being respectively pivotedto screws 12 of two clips 10, longitudinally slidable respectively onthe front rib 31 and the section 35 of the side rib. The strips 39 and40 are connected by clips 10 and 17 Opposite'ends of the plate 38 arepivoted respectively to the plates 40 and 41 by pins 43 and 44. Clips 10and 17 connect the plates 41 and 42. Clips 10 connect the plate 38 withthe plates 40 and 41. The side of dart rib which cooperates with theside of dart rib having sections 37 and 37 colnprises extensible upperand lower sections 45 and 46, pivotally connected together, the upperend of section 45 being pivoted to the plate 38 by' a pin 47, locatedadjacent to the pin 43. The lower end of the section 46 is pivoted toone end of an extensible transverse hip rib 48, which is pivotallyconnected to the lower end of another extensible side of dart ribcomprising upper and lower extensible sections 49 and 50, the upper endof section 49 being pivoted by the pin 44 to the plate 38 of theV top ofdart rib. An extensible side of dart rib which coperates with the ribcomprising sections 49 and 50, comprises extensible upper andlowersections 51 and 52, pivotally connected together, the upperend of thesec v tensible breast rib 55, has one end rigidly secured above the topof dart rib, to the front rib 31, the other end being pivoted by a pin56, to the scye rib 34, and the upper section 35. Connecting the breastrib 55 with the top of dart rib, is an inclined extensible rib 57, thelower end of which is rigidly secured to the plate 38 and the up- 'perend of which is pivoted to the screw 12 of a clip 10, mounted on thebreast rib 55. A transverse extensible waist rib 58, has one end pivotedto the section 37. The rib 58 is also pivotally connected to the section35, adjacent the lower end thereof. An extensible brace rib 59 has itsupper end pivoted by means of a pin 60 to the plate 38, the lower endbeing pivoted to a screw 12, of a clip 10, mounted on the waist rib 58.A waist rib 61, intermediate of the rib 48 and the top of dart rib, ispivotally connected at its ends respectively, to the ribs 45 and 46, andto the section 49. An extensible waist rib 62 is pivotally connected tothe front rib 31, and to the section 52. An inclined extensible bracerib 63, is pivotally connected by a pin 64 to the neck rib 32 and frontrib 31, said pin 64 serving to pivotally connect said front and neckribs. The other end of the rib 63 is pivotally connected to a screw 12of a clip 10, mounted on the scye rib 34.

For securing together the under arm and front patterns, the rib 26 ofthe underarm 'pat-tern is provided with hooks 65, which are adapted toenter slots 66, provided in the sections 35 and 35 of the side rib ofthe front pattern shown in Fig. 4. To secure together the side of dartribs comprising 37 and 37, and 45 and 46, the section 37 is providedwith a hook 68, adapted to enter a slot 69, provided in the waist rib 61and the section 46 is provided with a hook 70, adapted to enter a slot71, in the section 37 To secure together the other two side of dartribs, the lower section 52, is provided with a hook 72, adapted to entera slot 73, in section 49, and the section 50 is provided with a hook 74,adapted to enter a slot 75 in the section 52. To releasably secure thefront pattern to the center back pattern, the shoulder rib 33 of thefront pattern is provided with hooks 76 adapted to enter slots providedtherefor in the shoulder rib 4 of the center back pattern.

In applying the center back, side back, under arm and front patterns tothe body, these patterns are hooked together by t-he mechanismhereinbefore described, and the two pairs of side of dart ribs havetheir ribs hooked together with the mechanism already described. Thesaid patterns are then fitted on the person in their appropriatepositions, the arm of the person being thrust through the openingencircled by the scye ribs 5, 20, 27, and 34 of the several patterns.The different ribs of each pattern are then adjusted to properly lit thefigure, after which the screws of the dierent screw clips, which aremounted on the ribs, are adjusted so as to secure the ribs in theiradjusted positions. In the front pattern, shown in Fig. 4, theextensible rib 57 serves to regulate the top of dart rib of saidpattern, as to its height relative to the breast rib 55. Then thepatterns are applied to the body the clips 10 on the plate 38 of the topof dart rib are arranged so that all the plates or strips of this ribare in alinement with each other, as shown in Fig. l. After theypatterns just referred to have been fitted to the body, after thefashion of a garment, they are removed therefrom and detached from eachother. lhen so detached the center back, side back and under armpatterns may be disposed in a substantially flat position so that theseam lines may be delimited on the goods of which the waist is to bemade. The

hooks 68, 70, 72 and 74 of the front pattern are then removed from therecesses in which they are located, thereby allowing the side ofdartribs of said pat-tern to assume the proper positions in which thedarts are de limited. The brace rib 59 serves to regulate the amount ofcloth to be cut out in the back dart, which is delimited by the ribscomprising the sections 37 37, 45 and 46. In case that the dimensions ofthe breast and top of dart lines are such that the front pattern cannotbe disposed in the flat position after the side of dart ribs of thispattern have been released from each other, the clips 10, connecting theplate 38 of the top of dart rib, may be moved toward the rib 57 topositions in which the plates 40 and 41 may swing from positions inalinement with the plate 40 to positions regulated by the rib 57. InFig. 4 the clip 10, connecting the plates 38 and 41, is showndisconnected with the plate 41 so as to permit of the movement justdescribed. After the front pattern has been spread out on the cloth thedifferent seam lines are delimited by tracing lines following the outeredges of the ribs 31, 32, 33, 34, sections 35 and 35, hip ribs 36, 48and 54, and the sections 37, 37', 45, 46, 49, 50, 51 and 52, no note, ofcourse, being taken of the projecting portions of the ribs 33, 55, 62,58, 48, 54, 3, 8, 9, 6 and 7, which, as will be understood, extendbeyond the true boundaries of the patterns to permit of their beingexpanded and contracted.

Referring now to the sleeve pattern, shown in Figs. 7 and 8, 77 denotesan extensible curved scye rib at the top of the pattern, the differentstrips of the rib being connected by clips 10. 78 and 79 denote twolongitudinal, extensible front seam ribs, the upper ends of which arepivotally connected by l screws and 12 to opposite ends of the rib 77.The upper end of an extensible back seam rib 82 is pivotally connectedto the rib 77, its lower end being pivotally connected to one end ot anextensible wrist rib 88, the other end of. which is pivotally connectedto the lower end of the rib 78. A transverse, extensible elbow rib 84 ispivotally connected by a pin 85 to the back seam rib 82. The ends of therib 84 are pivotally mounted on screws 12 and 8G, which are respectivelymounted in the ribs 79 and 78. The ribs 79 and 78 each comprise upperand lower sections which are respectively pivotally connected with eachother by said screws. rlhe lower sections of each of the ribs 79 and '78are rigidly secured respectively to the end strips of the elbow rib 84so that the lower sections of the ribs 78 and 79 may be flexed laterallyrelative to the upper sections. rlhe lower end of the rib 79 ispivotally secured to a transverse wrist rib 87, which is pivotallyconnected to a side of dart rib 88, the upper end. of which is pivotedto the ribs 82 and 84, by the pin 85. The rib 88 is adapted to be swungto position parallel with the back seam rib 82, in which position it maybe held by a screw clip 10, mounted on the wrist rib 88, the wrist rib87 having a protruding portion which is adapted to be inserted in saidscrew clip. To regulate the height of the elbow rib 84, I provide anextensible vertical rib 89, the upper end ot which is pivoted to thescrew 12 of a clip 10, located at the highest portion of the rib 77. Therib 89 extends through a clip 18, mounted on the elbow rib 84,intermediate of the ribs 78 and 82, and is secured to the rib 84 by ascrew 16, as shown in Figs. 8 and 12. The rib 89 is preferably securedrigidly to the transverse extensible top of arm rib 90, the ends ofwhich are pivoted to the screws 80 and 12. A clip 18, such as shown inFig. 12, connects the rib 90 with the rib 82. A brace rib 91 isconnected to the ribs 88 and 84 by clips 18, corresponding to the clipsshown in F 12.

To lit the arm pattern it is formed around the arm, as shown in Fig. 7,the wrist rib 87 being first inserted in the clip 10, on the rib 88, andsecured thereto by the screw 12 of said clip. The extending ends of theribs 90 and 84 are then extended through the clips 10, which are mountedon said ribs and on the rib 79. The opposite end of the rib 87 issecured to a screw clip 10 mounted on the wrist rib 88 adjacent to therib 78. The various ribs are then adjusted to the proper positions,after which the ribs 87, 84 and 90 are released from the clips whichsecure them in the encircling positions, after which the pattern may belaid lat for delimiting the seam lines in the manner described withreference to the other patterns. rlhe elbow rib 84 is preferablycomposed of two sections connected by the pin 85, which also connectstogether the ribs 82 and 88. By making the rib Y84 in two pivotedsections the pattern is permitted to lie flat when the adjusted lengthof the rib 84 exceeds that of rib 90, the clips 17, mounted on the rib84, which serve to hold the strips of the rib 84 in alinement with eachother, being at such times moved to positions on said rib to permitlateral movement of the sections relative, to each other.

Referring to Fig. 8 the side rib 18 of the side back pattern ispreferably composed of three sections, the upper and middle sectionbeingl pivoted together by a pin 92, the middle and lower sections beingpivoted together by a pin 98. In Fig. 8 the upper end of the middlesection is back of and hid by the rib 22. By pivoting the upper andmiddle sections together, the sections ot the side rib 18 may beadjusted or swung laterally relative to each other so that the patternmay be itted to stooping shoulders and to the arm after the center backand side back patterns are connected together in the manner hereinbeforedescribed. j

Various modifications of my invention, within the scope of thei appendedclaims, may be made without departing Jfrom its spirit. l

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is

1. In a garment lit-ter for a waist, a sleeve pattern having a scye rib,two front seam ribs respectively connected to opposite ends of the scyerib, a back seam rib intermediate of the front seam ribs, a dart ribpivoted to the back seam rib and movable from a position substantially'parallel with the back seam rib to a position atan angle thereto, twowrist ribs respectively pivoted to the front seam ribs and to the backseam and dart ribs, and means for releasably securingtogether in theparallel position the dart and back seam ribs.

2. In a garment fitter for a waist, a sleeve pattern having a scye rib,two longitudinal front seam ribs respectively secured to opposite endsof the scye rib, a transverse elbow rib vertically adjustable relativeto the scye rib and ha"ing means for being secured to the front seamribs, a back seam rib intermediate of the Jfront seam ribs, the backseam rib being extensible and secured tothe scye rib, an extensible dartrib pivoted to the elbow rib so as to swing to and from a positionsubstantially parallel with the back seam rib, and means for securingthe elbow rib in the position to which it may be adjusted.

8. In a garment litter for a waist, a flexible sleeve pattern having ascye rib, two longitudinal front seam ribs respectively secured toopposite ends of the scye rib, a transverse vertically adjustable elbowrib, a

back seam rib intermediate of the front seam ribs and secured to thescye rib, a dart rib pivoted to the elbow rib so as to swing to and froma position substantially parallel with the back seam rib, two wrist ribsrespectively pivoted to the front seam ribs and to the back seam anddart ribs, all ot' said ribs being extensible, means for releasably locking the elbow rib in the position to which it may be adjusted, means forreleasably locking together the front seam ribs when t-he pattern hasbeen formed to encircle an arm of a person, and means for releasablylocking the back seam and dart ribs inf the parallel position.

4. In a garment fitter for a waist, a front pattern having front andside ribs, neck and scye ribs respectively connected to the front andside ribs, a breast rib connected with the front and side ribs, a top ofdart rib connected and vertically adjustable relative to the front andside ribs, two side of dart ribs secured to the top of dart rib andmovable relative to each other from and to a position substantiallyparallel with each other, a waist rib connected with the side rib andwith one of the side of dart ribs, all of said ribs being extensible, abrace rigidly secured to the top of dart rib and pivoted to the breastrib for locking the top of dart rib in the position to which it isadjusted, and means for releasably locking the side of dart ribs in theparallel position.`

5. In a garment litter for a Waist, a front pattern having a front and aside rib, a breast rib rigidly secured to the front rib and pivoted tothe side rib, a vertically adjustable top of dart rib connecting thet'ront and side ribs, an extensible brace connected to the breast riband the top of dart rib intermediate of the front and side ribs forregulating the adjustment of the top of dart rib, two side of dart ribssecured, one pivotally, to the top of dart rib, the pivoted side of dartrib being movable to and from a po- Gopies of this patent may beobtained for ve cents each, by addressing the sition substantiallyparallel with the other side of dart rib, a waist rib connecting theside rib with the pivoted side of dart rib, all of the aforesaid ribsbeing extensible, and an adjustable brace connecting the top of dart ribwith the waist rib.

6. In a garment fitter for a waist, a front pattern having a front and aside rib, a breast rib, a vertically adjustable top of dart ribconnecting the front and side ribs, and an extensible brace connected tothe breast and top of dart rib intermediate of the front and side ribsfor regulating the position of the top of dart rib, the breast ribconnecting the front and side ribs.

7. In a garment itter for a waist, a front pattern having a front riband a side rib, a breast rib connecting the front and side ribs, avertically adjustable top of dart rib having its ends pivotallyconnected respectively to the front and side ribs, and an extensiblebrace rigidly secured to the top of dart rib intermediate of the ends ofthe top of dart rib, and pivoted to the breast rib for regu.

lating the position of the top of dart rib.

S. In a garment litter for a waist, a sleeve pattern having' two frontribs, elbow, top of arm and scye ribs connecting said front ribs, and avertical extensible rib rigidly secured to the top of arm rib andsecured to the elbow rib intermediate of the front ribs.

9. In a garment fitter for a waist, a sleeve pattern having two frontribs, elbow, top of arm and scye ribs connecting said front ribs, and avertical extensible rib rigidly secured to the top of arm rib andsecured to the scye and elbow ribs intermediate of the front ribs.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification inpresence of two subscribing witnesses.

HARRIET LEE.

Witnesses:

E. B. HOUSE, CHESTER THOMAS.

Commissioner of Patents,

